Our 2nd old school feature of the week is out of Texas. The Datsun 510 has been one of the most popular imports since its release in the 70s and its popularity continues to grow as the 510 gets older. The worst part of this popularity is that its a job in itself to find one that is complete and in a condition where it can be saved and made into a street legal car. We are happy to be able to bring to you all Sean’s 510 sedan–revived to be driven and enjoyed like it was meant to be when it was created.
I usually like to talk to the owners and get an idea of what kind of person they are and try to get an all around idea of what they have in mind with their build. But with this car I did not have the opportunity to do so. However after looking at the photos and the mod list of performance parts pieced from all types of other vehicles I kind of got the idea. When building an old school there are so many different options and so many different pieces to the puzzle that need to be gathered up to make it perform the way you want it to. This car has shaped out to be revived and updated with pure performance in mind.
The 510 has a natural aggressive look built into the front end, like a little blue angry terrier ready to attack. It’s equipped with S14 Megan coilovers up front and rear Techno Toy coilovers in the rear.
Some folks may question the amount of work done to the car and no attention given to the rust or paint. When you purchase an old school like this, part of the building process is choosing what battle you want to fight first. Do you want to battle the long road to complete body restoration or do you embrace what you have and progress? There are times where a chassis is too far gone to be saved, but a little surface rust builds character on a classic car like this.
What makes an old school so much fun is the variety of parts that you can use to put it all together. And at the same time you can still satisfy the purist that lives in all of us. On this 510 it starts with the Subaru rear end and the 280z brakes.
And moves onto the ITB setup from a Toyota 20v motor from the FWD JDM Corolla/Levin (Ae111)
Which is attached the Sr20 NEO VVL head, that is attached to the SR20DE block.
With an older chassis, proper bracing and reinforcement is necessary when more power is added. Pictured is the Cusco strut bar and a few other Techno Toy tie rod ends, and tension bars.
One of my favorite parts of the car is the vanity plate. For some reason the phrase “sup fool” fits the car’s character so much.
S14 SR20DE block with SR20VE NEO VVL head
R&D Factory high capacity oil pan
Custom Danstoy intake manifold
AE111 20V ITB’s with Techno Toy velocity stacks
One off DGR equal length stainless 4-1 header
Custom Griffin aluminum radiator with 12″ electric fan
RCI aluminum overflow tank
-8 SS lines and fittings from valve cover to vent can
2.5″ mandrel exhaust with stainless Magnaflow muffler
S14 5spd with short shifter
Modified S14 drive shaft
4.38 JDM Subaru LSD
RCI aluminum 10 gallon fuel cell with Walbro pump
Haltech E6X EMS
Custom S14 wiring harness
Greddy fuel pressure, oil pressure and water temp gauges
AEM UEGO wideband
Pivot 80mm tachometer
MADDAT reversed front X member with 1″ front sway bar
MADDAT steering box brace
S14 Megan front coilovers on 280zx struts
280zx front disk brakes
Futofab adjustable LCA’s
Techno Toy solid tie rods
Techno Toy rear coilovers
Techno Toy RCA’s
Techno Toy camber plates
Techno Toy tension control rods
Cusco strut bar
Konig Rewinds 14×7 -9 with 185/55/14 federal 595’s
Recaro SRD seats with Schroth harnesses
Nardi deep corn 350mm wheel, ACR steering wheel adapter and Works Bell quick release hub
Thanks for looking and reading!